Time to Rub the Porcellino’s Nose…
For something of an escape from the dystopian universe that it life in Covid-smacked post-Trumpian hate-crimed blackfriday build-back-better land, Davis and I took off on Halloween for a month-long soujourn to the ultimate frozen-in time-paradise, Florence.
We’ve been coming here, nearly every winter for many years (save the last couple because of, well, you know,) and it was so nice to see our favorite places, eat our favorite foods, hug our favorite people and discover some new things, too.
The weather was fine — warm and sunny almost every day. We ate outside and enjoyed people watching as Florence put on her holiday best. There are many wonderful open-air markets here featuring antiques, local foods, bric-a-brac and the usual Florentine tourist bait of leather goods and scarfs. We had never been here at the same time as the storied November and December German-style Christmas market held in Piazza Santa Croce.
While I’m glad to have seen it, if I’m honest, despite the mulled wine and strudel booths; pretzel and candy, cookies and würsts of every sort and flavor, it was more Fryeburg Fair than traditional Weihnachten wonderland. Interesting, I guess, but not my cup of tea.
For the first time, we ventured south and took a place in a 12th century tower on the other side of the Arno from the city center in a delightful neighborhood called Oltrarno. Our apartment, on the top floor, had a commanding view from the Pitti Palace and Santo Spirito on one side to the Duomo and Santa Croce on the other. Simply breathtaking. We felt so lucky to have been able to stay here since were it not for Covid and the “off-season” we would never have been able to afford such a place.
In addition to its commanding view, our torre and its postage stamp kitchen were perfect. Apart from the hectic tourist sites, we walked and shopped, enjoyed morning coffee and worked from home with a Renaissance view.
But soon, it’s time to go home. Back to friends and home and our darling Gang of Four small canine scoundrels. As is traditional, however, (because I am just a bit superstitious,)I rubbed the nose of the storied cinghale at the straw market: a gesture said to insure a quick return to Florence. Soon, again. Andiamo.
The truly skillful roll a Euro coin down the pig’s snout to land in the grate beneath.
On beautiful Borgo San Jacopo, this glorious torre is just down the street from Angela Caputi, jeweler to the stars. (Or at least to me!)
Our dear friend, Tommy from Vini e Vecchi Sappori one of Firenze’s best restaurants.